RV Tips for Holding Tanks

Today we're going to talk about RV holding tanks. To start with, I wanted to mention something about RV holding tanks that I don't think a lot of RVers are aware of. Many of the free dump stations available to RVers are closing because of chemicals that are harmful to septic systems and because RVers are abusing these dump stations. If we want to have access to these dump stations it is absolutely essential that we use septic safe chemicals (no formaldehyde), and that we clean up after ourselves and do not abuse dump stations.

RV Tips for Holding Tanks

RV Tips for Holding Tanks

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RV Tips for Holding Tanks

RV Tips for Holding Tanks

Your RV has what is referred to as a gray water holding tank and a black water holding tank. The gray water holding tank collects dirty water from the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. The black water holding tank is for the toilet. These tanks terminate into one main outlet used to empty the holding tanks. This is where we connect our sewer hose.

Make sure you have the required couplings and connectors. It may be necessary to attach two hoses together to reach the sewer connection. I recommend you only use heavy duty sewer hoses. Their not that expensive and they hold up much better. Keep a 10 foot hose and a 20 foot hose available. Do not pull or drag the sewer hose on the ground. This will cause it to tear or get pin holes in it.

To hook up the sewer hose make sure both valves are closed and remove the sewer cap. Make the connection by putting the hose adapter over the outlet and turn it clockwise until it locks securely in place. Take the other end of the hose over to the campground sewer connection. Use the necessary adapters to make the connection and get a good seal. It's a good idea to place some weight over the hose so it doesn't jump back out when you drain the tanks. It may be necessary to use some type of sewer hose support to get a good angle from the RV to the campground sewer connection so the tanks drain properly when you empty them. The small valve is for the gray water tank and the large valve is for the black water tank.

One golden rule for RV holding tanks is to never dump the black water tank until it is at least two thirds full. You want the tank nearly full so the weight and the gravity will force the contents of the tank to drain properly. Another golden rule is to never leave the black tank valve open at the campground and expect the toilet to drain or flush like the toilet in your home. It won't work.

When the tanks are full, or nearly full always dump the black tank first, followed by the gray tank. The gray water tank should also be at least two thirds full. Dumping the gray water tank last will help to flush the sewer hose out.

When you're at the campground for an extended period of time you can leave the gray tank valve partially open so it drains as you use it, but remember to NEVER do this with the black tank. If it's time to leave the campground and your holding tanks are not full you can finish filling them with water and then dump them. Never use your drinking water hose for holding tank maintenance or cleaning purposes. RV drinking hoses are normally white. Take a different color hose for others uses so you can distinguish the difference.

After you dump the tanks you need to thoroughly flush the tanks out. Some RVs have a built in system for flushing the tanks out. If not there are other ways to do it. You can use a tank wand designed for cleaning and flushing the black tank. The only problem is you don't know when or if the black tank is really clean and you can't rinse or clean the gray tank with a wand. I use a product called the Flush King. It's a reverse flush valve that connects directly to your sewer outlet and rinses and cleans both holding tanks in one simple operation. It's easy to use and it has a see through barrel so you know when the tanks are really clean.

Every time you dump the black tank you need to treat it with holding tank chemicals to assist in controlling odors and to break down solids. You should always use environmentally safe chemicals. Enzyme based chemicals use the good bacteria to digest waste and control odors. Formaldehyde based chemicals destroy the bacteria that's needed to break down waste and they can be dangerous to humans and pets.

The first step is to add enough water to completely cover the bottom of the tank. Four or five toilet bowls full should be enough depending on the size of your black tank. Water will assist a great deal with controlling holding tank odors. You always want the contents of the tank to be covered by water. Next, fill the toilet bowl and add the proper amount of holding tank chemicals, usually four ounces for every forty gallons the tank holds. Flush the toilet. Repeat this procedure every time you empty the black water holding tank. Some holding tank chemicals like RV Trine also contains valve lubricants to keep the valves operating properly and extend the valve seals life.

You should always use toilet paper designed for use in RVs. This toilet paper breaks down and dissolves in the holding tank chemicals preventing potential problems with the holding tank, the RV sewer system and the dump station septic system.
False holding tank readings on your monitor panel are caused by the holding tank probes being covered by toilet tissue or other debris. If flushing the tank doesn't solve the problem add some water and a couple bags of ice cubes to the empty holding tank. Drive or pull the trailer so the ice cubes can scrub the sides of the tank. Proper holding tank chemicals will also keep the holding tank probes clean.

Over time grease and residue builds up in the gray tank and it causes a foul odor, not to mention how it is affecting the tank and valve assembly. Periodically treat the gray tank with environmentally safe holding tank chemicals to avoid odors from the tank. When the tank is empty you can also add some dish washing liquid down the drains to help break down grease and residue build up.

Following these simple holding tank tips can prevent problems and provide you with long lasting trouble free holding tanks. This is one problem we can all do without! All of our RV walk-through videos cover information on RV holding tanks, the water system, LP gas system, electrical system and more. Check out our new "RV Essential Items" DVD to show you what items you will want for your RV to make all of your RV experiences more enjoyable.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Tips for Holding Tanks

Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters

Every state, city, and village either has odor ordinances or treats obnoxious odors perceptible beyond property lines as public disturbances/nuisance. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors unless they fitted with a filter. OSHA warns that levels of 300-ppm (H2S) cause the olfactory nerve to lose sensitivity. At first a "rotten egg" odor is detected but on the second or third breath the odor is no longer noticed. All major odor problems have associated fines or other penalties.

Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters

Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters

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Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters

Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters

When you are experiencing sewer or septic smells inside a home or business not near a plumbing fixture these odors are most likely coming from your sewer vent stacks on your roof. All plumbing vent stacks produce odors including that "rotten egg" smell caused by hydrogen sulfide gas unless they are fitted with a filter. One of the most common problems is the sewer gas (H2S) is drawn into the fresh air intakes on the roof from the air conditioning systems. On roofs industrial buildings code also require fresh air intake for building air balance against all the stale air exhausted through roof vents. The potential problem can be identified through basic smell of odor when on the roof or around the perimeter of the building as hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas is heavier than air and thus falls to "nose level" quickly when the wind blows just right. A professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration being omitted from specific roof vent stacks. The vents omitting gas is a natural occurrence on most homes and buildings because that's the way they are designed.

Raising roof vent stacks does not solve the problem it only displaces it on a windy day to blow over the exterior wall to open windows, the patio, the fireplace, the garden, pool area, sidewalk, front door, driveway, or parking lot. On a non-wind day sewer gas is heavier than air and will settle on roof and cause intermittent sewer odors in the home or building.

Installing a One way valve on the sewer stacks will reduce the sewer gas that vents to the roof through the opening and closing of the valve. The Mechanical Engineers design the sewer venting system for it to be a sealed system in the home or business but unrestricted venting to the atmosphere. This type of system defeats the original design intent for all building designs. The system operates on demand of actions in the home or business such as the flush of a toilet or turning on a sink. Since this type of system is capping the vent stacks, it is pressurizing the sewer system in the home or business. It is creating more of a potential for sewer gas odor problems. Any type of bad plumbing seals or gaskets that that may have a small leak will cause the problem to intensify. The vent is now mechanically opened and closed by a valve. It can fail in open position too. This introduces sewer gas to the roof, when it fails.

Charcoal vent stack filters on the sewer stacks is one odor filters on the market but is less effective when introduced to moisture which causes it to solidify or cake up. Sewer gas from the vent stacks is extremely high with moisture since the systems primary function is to drain water in a sealed system underground away from the building. In my opinion this product is not the right product for this application.

I recommend for homes odor eliminator vent stack filters that use Zeocarbon. Zeocarbon is a mixture of carbon and zeolite rock, which has been independently demonstrated to work up to 7 times longer than regular carbon alone. Vent stack filters using this technology are unique in that they actually regenerate themselves for up to 5 years. These systems use sunlight. The exterior, interior, and zeocarbon replaceable bags themselves are impregnated with titanium dioxide (approximately the same quantity and type in most popular toothpastes on the market). When exposed to direct sunlight the titanium dioxide produces ozone, which directly destroys odors and regenerates the zeocarbon. When combined with "no flow periods" common to most households, this design allow us to operate up to 5 years without refilling the units. Many units completely block any regenerative UV sunlight though the use of opaque rain caps and guards that promote the development of odor producing bacteria. However because the zeocarbon can only absorb so much gas, this type filter is designed with a low cost, easily replaceable insert bags. Another good thing on this type filter is the restriction on the airflow is so slight (it has a pressure differential measured at only 1.5" w.g./ft@50 fpm) that it does not interfere with normal venting of the plumbing system. This type filter is made with animal resistant self-cleaning screens coupled with the frost proof insulating solar heat absorption design characteristics, protects the vent stack from plugging in all seasons.

The zeocarbon filter not only traps sewer gases at the roof vent, so they cannot escape into the air at all, but it also means less air pollution from GREENHOUSE GASES. It particularly traps ammonia, carbon dioxide (global warming) and hydrogen sulfide (the rotten-egg smelling gas), which the filter traps on an 18-24% wt/wt basis, and used zeocarbon acts as an excellent source of nitrogen when mixed with soil. Even though the filter is installed directly on the vent pipe, it's frost proof design is such that it not only does not impede air being drawn into the vent, it prevent hoar frost plugging and keeps out insects and critters. This filter is also for vents that are directly connected to aerated or non aerated septic tanks, septic mounds, drain fields, landfill vents, compost vents, etc. In many instances, city-sewer connections bring gas into the home's plumbing vents which vent the gases out the roof vent and often down into the back yard where they can be drawn into the home. This type filter has proven beneficial in those cases too!

I recommend for mobile homes, restaurants, daycare centers, nursing homes, and schools, odor eliminator vent stack filters that filter the harmful sewer odors by oxidation. Oxidation is accomplished with chlorine dioxide technology. Because chlorine dioxide reacts selectively and primarily with only the most offensive odor producing compounds (hydrogen sulfide, organic sulfurs, organic amines) the Odor Eliminators will normally provide a much longer service life than products such as activated carbon. With a properly designed filter that allows the original design of the system plumbing system to function does not pressurize the lines like some of the other products on the market. Moisture does not have a negative effect on the Eliminator therefore unwanted reactions do not occur and power is not needlessly spent allowing chlorine dioxide to be available and ready on demand. The result is safe, extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. Chlorine dioxide remains available and ready on demand.

Polishing is accomplished with technology that protects against the escape of malodors can not be oxidized. It incorporates polymeric adsorption and electrostatic bonding technologies. Polishing and oxidizing are accomplished simultaneously. The result is safe (utilizing the same material approved for food storage by the USDA), extremely effective, broad-spectrum malodor control. (Request Form No. 502 from USDA for more detailed information.)

After you have installed roof stack vent filters, inside odors are most likely coming from leaking wax seals or gaskets on your plumbing fixtures. In this case the odor is concentrated typically in an isolated area, the bathrooms. It can be intermittent due to several building mechanical system designs. Bathroom fixtures have a p-trap built-in the fixture so if the fixture becomes loose from the floor or the wall the wax seal or gasket can leak. This type of leak will allow sewer gas to leak directly into the room. Most bathrooms have an exhaust fan which intensifies the introduction of the gas into the room by pulling the gas from the source, the leaking seal at the floor moving it to the ceiling exhaust vent prior to exhausting the gas from the space. This condition is detected through smell or a professional can use a H2S measuring device to detect and measure sewer gas concentration. The remedy for this problem is to replace the bad fixture seals. Contact your preventive maintenance group or to arrange for a local technician help with this problem.

Bathroom odors can also be traced to urine absorption into the tile or tile grout.
Many businesses try to mask the odor by installing a deodorizer mister in the bathroom to spray a scented to product to mask the odors in bathrooms. With proper maintenance of fixtures in the bathrooms and the correct initial designed systems operating correctly this problem should be eliminated. If this condition is corrected overtime it can worsen and affect other parts of the business.

Odor and constant smell can be due to the build up of urine saturating tile grout around urinals and tile grout. There are spray products that eliminates this problem by using it in a regular maintenance program.

When you have floor sinks, drains and floor / wall clean outs dry of water especially in basements of homes and businesses in the production or mechanical areas you will often detect an offensive odor. A dried out p-trap allows the sewer system to vent freely into the space. In the case of a restaurant or any building with an exhaust system that may be in a negative air balance the problem is intensified. The exhaust system can draw the sewer gas into the facility. The affect on an isolated area is not uncommon or if it is near a return on the HVAC system circulate it through out the building. The most efficient way to identify if you have this problem is to do a smoke test on the sewer system. Prior to doing the smoke test we would first recommend verifying all floor sinks and drains have water in the p-traps. This would include the units in isolated rooms such as the mechanical areas and the units installed behind or under equipment. The wall clean outs can be visually inspected but are difficult to detect leakage without a H2S meter or a smoke test. The dried out p-trap when identified can be fixed by adding water to fill the p-trap. Contact your preventive maintenance group to help with this problem.

To fix floor drains and floor sinks add water to the traps on a regular basis or add a trap primer to the system.

To fix floor and wall clean outs check for bad seals in a random fashion. Replace where worn.

Sewer Odor Experts for Roof Top Sewer Vent Stack Filters